Tucked away in Woodland Hills, LaaLaaPan Indonesian Cuisine brings a vibrant slice of Indonesia to Los Angeles’ San Fernando Valley. More than just a restaurant, it’s a gateway to the bold flavors and traditions of Southeast Asia.
I was introduced to LaaLaaPan by my friend, Michael Passage. “You have to try this Indonesian place!” he said. So, we recently met there for lunch.
My first impression? A true hole-in-the-wall, the kind you’d find in Indonesia, a small, family-run warung. Four tables fill the front, with three more lining the hallway that leads to the kitchen and restroom. The back area felt a bit cluttered and cramped, giving off a slightly disorganized vibe, but also that unmistakable, lived-in warmth of a busy eatery. The space is simple and unpretentious: a TV playing sports, a fridge tucked into the front corner, and English pop music in the background. I did mention to the owner that Indonesian pop music in the background would complement the ambiance.
The restaurant takes its name from lalapan, a Javanese and Sundanese tradition of serving raw vegetables with sambal, the fiery chili paste that anchors much of Indonesian cooking. Often paired with grilled or fried proteins like chicken, catfish, or tempeh, lalapan represents both simplicity and depth, the same spirit LaaLaaPan brings to its menu.
The Owners
The restaurant is the work of husband-and-wife duo Lili Winahyu and Stephen Marli. Originally from Jakarta, Winahyu moved to the United States in 2011, carrying with her a lifelong dream of sharing Indonesian cuisine with a wider audience. “I grew up in the restaurant business,” she recalls. “Some of my earliest memories are of helping my grandmother in her kitchen and watching her run her restaurant.”
The Menu
At LaaLaaPan, guests will find a wide array of authentic Indonesian food staples alongside well-priced lunch specials. The mix of everyday comfort dishes and bold, spice-driven flavors makes LaaLaaPan an appealing stop not just for those who grew up with the cuisine, but also for Angelenos eager to explore one of Asia’s most complex culinary traditions.
Signature Dishes
Beef Rendang: A slow-cooked beef dish simmered in coconut milk and spices until tender and rich in flavor.
Ayam Kremes Komplit: Indonesian fried chicken, simmered with spices, fried to golden perfection, and served with tamarind soup and sambal.
Grilled Pompano Fish: Perfectly marinated with turmeric and spices, served with sweet soy sauce, sambal, and yellow coconut rice.
Nasi Uduk: Steamed coconut rice, often considered a signature dish, reflecting the restaurant’s dedication to traditional recipes.
Sate Ayam: Marinated chicken skewers, grilled to perfection, offering a smoky and savory flavor.
I opted for the Ayam Kremes from the lunch menu, skipping the tamarind soup. The chicken arrived golden and crisp, with a delicate crunch that gave way to juicy, tender meat inside. The seasoning was flavorful yet not overpowering, with a subtle hint of garlic and spices that evoked an authentically Indonesian flavor. Paired with simple sides, the dish was comforting yet elevate, a perfect introduction to the flavors of the menu without being overwhelming
When I saw Ayam Kremes on the menu, I was reminded of my late cousin Annette Sulilatu, who lived in Jakarta. She was the one who first introduced me to Mbok Berek. She couldn’t stop talking about the legendary Yogyakarta-style fried chicken (ayam goreng), and from the very first bite, I understood why it had earned such a devoted following.
Ayam Kremes
Origin: Indonesia, particularly Java. “Ayam” means chicken, “Kremes” refers to the crispy, crunchy topping.
Story: It’s a traditional Javanese dish where fried chicken is served with a thin, crispy layer of batter or spiced crumbs (kremesan). The crunch is the signature feature, often made from seasoned flour, coconut, or rice flour.
Cultural significance: It’s a common home-style and street food dish, also found in traditional warungs (small eateries). The dish represents comfort food, crispy, flavorful, and usually served with rice and sambal.
Mbok Berek Fried Chicken
Origin: Mbok Berek, whose real name was Nyi Kiyem (also known as Nini Ronodikromo), lived during the 19th and early 20th centuries. She and her husband, Ronodikromo, began selling Kalasan-style fried chicken in the early 1830s in the village of Candisari, near Yogyakarta. Their business gained popularity, and Nyi Kiyem became affectionately known as “Mbok Berek” due to her son Ronoprawiro’s frequent crying (“berek-berek”) while she sold her food. The name “Mbok Berek” stuck and became synonymous with their fried chicken legacy.
Story: The chicken is braised in a rich, spiced coconut milk sauce for about two hours using a natural pressure-cooking method until perfectly tender, then deep-fried to a golden crisp and often topped with kremesan (crispy crumbs). The result is a dish that is juicy on the inside, crisp on the outside, and richly flavored without being overwhelming. Some versions carry a subtle sweetness or a hint of nutmeg, reflecting the colonial-era Indo influence.
Cultural significance: The original restaurant founded by Nyi Kiyem was visited by President Sukarno in the 1950s, further solidifying its status as a national culinary icon. After the restaurant’s closure in the 1960s, her descendants continued the tradition, establishing various restaurants under the “Mbok Berek” name, each preserving the original recipe and contributing to the widespread popularity of this iconic dish.
Today, the legacy of Mbok Berek lives on through numerous establishments across Indonesia, each serving the beloved Kalasan-style fried chicken that has become more than a staple of Indonesian cuisine, it’s a cultural touchstone.
Short comparison
While both celebrate Indonesia’s love of fried chicken, Ayam Kremes and Ayam Mbok Berek offer very different experiences. Ayam Kremes delights with its signature kremesan, light, golden, crispy crumbs that crown tender, lightly seasoned chicken, making every bite a satisfying crunch. Ayam Mbok Berek, on the other hand, is a richer, more indulgent affair: the chicken is slowly braised in a fragrant, spiced coconut milk sauce before being fried to a perfect golden crisp and finished with kremesan. The meat is melt-in-your-mouth tender, infused with deep, aromatic flavors, and occasionally kissed with a hint of sweetness or nutmeg, a nod to its Yogyakarta roots and Indo-Dutch heritage. Each dish tells its own story, from everyday comfort to culinary tradition.
Final Word
For Angelenos curious about one of Asia’s most complex and spice-driven cuisines, LaaLaaPan is a welcome addition. Modest in size but big in ambition, this family-run spot brings the heart of Indonesia to the San Fernando Valley, one plate at a time.
